Moloka'i - "talking story" in the old Hawai'i

Moloka'i - Hawaiian by Nature

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They say that the best way to learn about a place is to listen to the locals tell their stories, and in Moloka'i this is particularly true.  The tradition of story-telling and the rich culture of the oral tradition remains strong in this unspoiled corner of "old Hawai'i".

Our adventure with the Un-Cruise yacht the Safari Explorer begins here after a thrilling 20 minute plane ride on Mokulele Airlines from Maui.  Only 9 passengers aboard and a security briefing by the co-pilot as he rotates around from his seat in the cockpit.

A full rainbow greets us as we lift off from Maui bound for Moloka'i

Though many who visit Moloka'i have the opportunity to descend into the valley of Kalaupapa on the north shore and bear witness to the moving history of the work of Father Damien with those stricken with Hansen's disease, our journey took us to another valley on the island, the sacred place of Halawa.

There in Halawa we were welcomed with the traditional Honi greeting and the demonstration of the blowing of the conch shell.  Greg and Gregerson were our guides, their families having lived in the valley for 50 generations, the longest continuous civilization known in Hawai'i.  In ancient times, due to the remoteness and depth of the landscape, the conch shell was used to announce the arrival of a visiting neighbor.  If the person to be visited did not respond in kind, the visitor had no choice but to return home.  As the visitor is welcomed, he then chants his heritage as far back as his memory and time allows. This was a striking concept....the connection with past generations is palpable to these young Hawaiians, and made us think about the responsibility carried forward by each successive family.

At the traditional hale, or home, of the valley, Greg demonstrates how poi is made and the importance of the food source for the family.  This is men's work, and one can see that it takes a great deal of muscle to pound the poi into a smooth consistency, smooth enough so that the revered elders (who might be dentally challenged) can enjoy the nutritious dish as well.  Greg uses a poi board and mortar made of lava rock handed down from his ancestors.

Meanwhile, he weaves a story of an episode in Moloka'i history that will forever be etched in the oral tradition of the valley.  The devastating tsumani of April 1, 1946 lives on in the memories of the families who live here now, and Greg's moving re-telling of that fateful morning when the tidal wave swept through the valley had us all spellbound.  A link to the accounts can be found here courtesy of the University of Hawai'i...tsunami history

We parted the valley with great reluctance.  The beauty of the setting, the warmth of these young people living the lives of their ancestors, and the stunning beaches that graced the entrance to the valley were treasures that will long remain in our memories.  But, we knew that the ship awaited and we were excited to finally be embarking on our Safari Explorer adventure!